Hacienda San Diego is one of the most fascinating estates in Chihuahua but unfortunately has been abandoned and no maintenance is taking place. It was built in 1874  and although initially used to grow livestock it was eventually  occupied by revolutionary Francisco I Madero who would lead the Mexican revolution from here to become president in 1911.

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What do you need to take good pictures? As they say the answer is practice, practice and practice. And a good photography book free for download won't hurt either.

Sure, good lighting conditions and a decent camera (in September 2019 I switched from my regular Nikon DSLR to the smaller, more practical and fun mirrorless DSLR Panasonic G85)  will help, but to really master your skills you need to become very intimate (almost in a freaky way) with your equipment. 

Henri Cartier Besson

" Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst."

by Thomas Leuthard is a guide to street photography, the art of catching people as they go about their everyday lives.

Street photography can be one of the most natural or most difficult types of photography depending on the awareness of your subject.

It is also one of the most democratic, placing ordinary people in the center of the shot.

Follows on from Going Candid. It will take you from being a beginner to a more advanced level of street photography. It also contains some of the author’s own experiences of taking photographs in the street.

The post 30+ Mind-Blowing Photography Books Free for Download appeared first on MaiTravelSite.

Right click below and select “Save As” to download and save in your computer

[download id=”19″ format=”1″]

Do you like this picture? Feel free to send it to your friends, and please share it cause as they say, sharing is caring!

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I wanted to take a picture of it in such a way that nothing else disturbed the viewer from looking at what I wanted him/ her to. The solution? As I could not move the temple behind it  on one side and the green foliage on the other was too to be able to focus appropriately with my camera I used depth of field to blur the background and make the flower the star of the shot. I set the aperture at a large aperture (small f-stop number) which I think was around 1/ 1.8 with my fast and cheap Nikon 50 mm f1.8 lens, adjusted everything there is to adjust and shot. The result is what you see.

So what is depth of field? Simply put depth of field is what determines what is focused and what not in a picture. The extent as to which you can use this concept is also determined by your camera- compact cameras do not have much flexibility  but some do have a Macro mode to take pictures of close-ups which you can use to blur the background when taking portraits. Another trick is to stand far from the object and zoom in to focus on it. By pressing the button half way you will lock the focus and can then move the camera slightly to showcase more of the background for that blurry effect. SLR cameras, on the other hand, have different lenses which allow all the flexibility you’ll need. The best ones, of course, will come at a price (consider these tips for buying a lens for travel photography).

This is my explanation on what depth of field is and how you can use it to take better pictures without going into too much detail. However,  to help you understand this better  I have asked the same question to fellow travel bloggers and experienced professional photographers who were happy to answer this question: Daniel Shah, Daniel Nahabedian, Dave Boskill and Bethany Savlon.

What is depth of field and how can it be used to improve travel photography?

Daniel Shah says:

“When I was studying photography I had no idea about depth of field. But I learnt it from time to time with practice and got the real concept when I started teaching photography. Depth of field is the sharpness of the distance between your subject and its background/foreground.

You need to adjust it according the the frame you have in your mind. If you want things to appear sharp behind your subject that are existing between your subject and its background, you need smaller aperture number. And the more you increase the number, the sharper it gets”

Daniel Shah is a traveler, blogger and photograper based in Pakistan. Join his Facebook Page !

Daniel Nahabedian responds:

“Depth of field is the distance between the closest and farthest object in a photo that appear sharp. To put it more easily, it’s how much in your picture is blurred and how much is in focus. It is very important for starting photographers to understand how it works.

You can control depth of field by increasing or decreasing your aperture. The wider your aperture (smaller numbers like f/1.8 or f/2.8), the shallower your depth of field will be. This means that the object you are focusing on will be sharp while the foreground and background will be blurry/soft.

Also, the smaller your aperture (bigger numbers like f/11 or f/22), the sharper everything in the scene will be.

So when taking portraits, you will probably need a shallow depth of field so that the face (eyes) are sharp and the background is blurry to avoid distraction. When taking landscape shots, it’s better to use a tripod and shoot with the smallest aperture possible (usually f/22) to get everything in the scene as sharp as possible from the closest flowers to the distant mountains.”

Daniel Nahabedian is a professional photographer who spends a good portion of his time exploring remote locations looking for the ultimate shot. You’ve probably seen several of his photos if you’re an avid user of Stumble Upon, otherwise you can see examples of his work in his photoblog www.canvas-of-light.com

Bethany Savlon comments:

“Depth of field in the most simplest terms is the range of sharpness in your image. Using a larger aperture (2.8 or below) will create a smaller depth of field in your photo. This is great when you want to isolate a subject (think portrait or a single flower in a field) and have the rest of your image fall into a slight blur. It makes the subject stand out in the viewer’s eyes.

When shooting a landscape you may want to use a larger depth of field so that more parts of your image are in focus. To do this you would use a smaller aperture (f11 or higher). Using an aperture of 5.6 or above is a good bet when shooting a group photo because it will ensure that everyone’s faces will be in focus. The larger the group – the smaller the aperture you need to use.

Remember that the aperture (f/stop) you choose controls the range of sharpness in your photo.

Lower f -stop number (f/1.8) = larger aperture = shallow depth of field
Higher f-stop number (f/22) = smaller aperture = greater depth of field”

Dave Bouskill replies:

“Depth of field is really just the distance between the closest object and furthest object in a photo that appear to be sharp. There are 2 types of DOF.

Shallow: where the foreground or background are very out of focus compared to the subject.

Deep: where the background, foreground and subject are all in sharp focus together.

DOF can be used in many ways. the most common is to use a “Shallow” DOF when you want to separate out the subject from the foreground or background. This is accomplished by using either a very wide open aperture like F1.2-2.8 or increasing the distance between the subject and the background/foreground.

Tips:

When shooting portraits or close ups try to use a shallow DOF to make them stand out from the background. This will keep distractions out of focus and allow the viewer to focus on the subject. This also comes in handy when shooting flowers or any other Macro shots.

When shooting landscapes try to make sure to have a deep DOF. You want as much of that beauty in focus as you can. I usually accomplish this by shooting all of my landscape shots at F11 or above.”

Dave represents half of one of the most popular travel blogs in the web, www.theplanetd.com. Together with Debra they travel the world not only to see but to experience, learn and show what cultures of the world can teach us all. Dave was recently requested by Olympus cameras to become part of their test team.

Without a doubt it takes time to be able to use depth of field comfortably and to accomplish desired effects. The great advantage even novice photographers have nowadays is that you don’t have to wait to develop a film to be able to see if you succeeded on your intention. With digital cameras you can immediately check what you did and, if not pleased, shoot again after making some adjustments! Imagine the cost involved during the learning curve when digital cameras did not exist. Ahh, the good old days…

Has this article helped you understand depth of field? Is depth of field something you use regularly when taking pictures when traveling? Got any questions? Share your opinion below, and this post too if you think others might find it helpful!

The post Understanding Depth of Field and How it Can Improve Your Travel Photography appeared first on MaiTravelSite.

Have you travelled in Mexico? Did you drive? What situations did you find yourself in, or what anecdote can you share with us? What would you have liked to find more of on the roads?  And less? Please comment below, and share this post if you liked it!

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One of the things that usually find themselves inside the backpack during the early stages of packing for a trip are cameras and lenses, particularly if you take travel photography somewhat seriously. For many, a point and shoot camera is enough (some have superb zooms), but there are others who want to take their photography to the next step and bring home images that could very well be the cover shot of National Geographic's next issue. Or almost. If you're one of them you'll probably want to know which is the best camera lens for travel photography, one that can take care of most situations avoiding the extra bulk and weight.

Which is the Best Lens For Travel Photography? Is there a Single One Lens?

​Unfortunately, no. Let me explain.

The lens (and camera) you and I need when traveling will vary from trip to trip considerably and depend on a number of factors including the length of the trip, the nature of the trip, who I'm traveling with and what we plan to take pictures of.

A lens can make or break you in terms of image quality. I constantly advise people to get the best one that they can afford as an upgrade in lens will usually lead to much greater improvements in image quality than an upgrade in camera body. But then again you can edit your images in post processing once you get back home- the question is if you'll take the time to do so.

The main considerations that you’ll probably want to consider when buying a lens for travel include:

Weight. Are you ready to carry photography gear that weighs more than 5 kg (10 lbs) on an extended holiday with your family?  I don't think so.

Versatility: It's hot... humid...your kid is tired and your partner/ friend is waiting for you to switch lenses, adjust the tripod, switch filters... wouldn't life be easier if you only had one lens?

Speed. Do you plan on taking a lot of pictures with low light? You're going to have to make a compromise if you want a zoom lens as these aren't as fast.

Other reasons.​ The most important one being cost. Another is storage. How are you going to carry it/ them?

A good camera and a backpack is all you need to enjoy travel photography.

The Best Way to Store Camera Lenses When Traveling

You may not have thought about it, but this is a very important point to consider prior to buying a great DSLR lens for travel. How are you going to carry it? Don't count on hanging it by your neck or shoulder all the time- you'll end up sore, very sore.

At the end of the day you really only have three options.​ Getting a camera backpack, buying a hard case or carrying it in your everyday backpack. 

​Camera Backpacks/ Shoulder Bags

​These backpacks are designed specifically for carrying cameras. They are all well padded and have different storage areas for the main body and lens, additional lenses, filters and other gear. I used to have one for many years with a padded camera sleeve, but ditched it for my 10 month round the world trip because I didn't want to carry an additional third backpack.

How much photography gear are you really going to carry when you travel?

Hard & Waterproof Camera Cases

These hard plastic camera cases are large and durable, but definitely not good for traveling. I wouldn't even consider one, unless you want it to keep your camera securely stored at home.

Camera Sleeves

The Best Way to Clean a Camera Lens On the Road

​This is another point you have to consider when buying your ideal DSLR lens for travel. Premium glass (lenses) are expensive and need to be taken care of very well- will you be diligent enough to follow throw? 

Non premium camera lenses still have to be taken care of , and you're going to need a bit of extra equipment, but you might not have to be as careful. You'll still want to make sure the lenses are clean as dirty glass can lead to blurry images. Should sand get inside the lens there's a chance it might stop working if you don't clean it as soon as possible. 

How should you clean it then when on the road? There are different ways but all are very similar:​

1. Cleaning the exterior of the lens, including the lens hood – Start by using wet microfiber cloth to remove any dust or dirt from lens exterior and lens hood. I apply the same optical formula that contains anti-static material on microfiber cloth or if the lens is too dirty, I start off by using regular water (distilled water would work best) and then finish off with using the solution. To clean the rubber zoom and focus rings, I use an ordinary toothbrush, which works great for removing particles in between the rubber lines.
2. Cleaning the lens mount – a very important part of the process that sometimes requires me to clean the mount several times due to oil and dirt. Apply the same lens cleaning solution on microfiber cloth and clean the mount thoroughly. Don’t forget to clean the round contacts on the lens as well.
3. Cleaning the rear and the front optical elements – I find microfiber cloth to be unsafe for cleaning optical lens elements, especially if you reuse the same microfiber cloth that you use to clean your lenses outside. Also, sometimes microfiber cloth will leave particles that are hard to remove with the rocket blower, so I rely on lens cleaning tissues instead. They clean glass very well and if they leave anything on the lens, it can be easily removed by the rocket blower.

​Choose the Travel Lens You Really Need

The equipment you'll need to be able to shoot in a wide range of conditions is expensive, heavy and bulky, and thus trying to save money and space becomes essential, particularly on long trips- unless you're a photographer on assignment. Thus the question is: what is the single best camera lens for travel photography that will let you shoot in a wide range of conditions and give you the flexibility to take your images to then next level?

I own a Nikon D90, bought it right before my round the world trip together with a Nikon 18-135mm 3.5-5.6 lens and a Nikon f1.8 50 mm lens, plus a tripod and some extra gear. The reasons I bought these camera lenses and not anothers were:

1. I chose a brand name because at the time it was be part of the kit, saving a few dollars.
2. After hours of searching online I concluded that the 18-135mm is sharper than the 18-200mm
3. Lenses with long zooms can suffer from creep, referring to the fact that because of weight, when hanging from the shoulder the lens extends itself because of its own weight. You then run the risk of hitting it against something or simply scraping the glass.

I have to say that after using it for over a year I am very pleased with it. Sure, there are times when extra zoom would come in handy, but I also want the final picture to be as sharp as possible (at a price I can afford). Plus I didn't want to have to worry about my lens hitting something because it had extended itself.

As for the 50mm f1.8, I bought it because it is very cheap (just over 100 USD) and I wanted a fast lens I could use during low light conditions and when shooting portraits or close subjects. However I have to admit I have barely used it. The D90 is not a full frame camera (meaning that the sensor if not equivalent to a 35mm film) and has a crop factor of 1.5, which results in the lens being a 75mm lens in reality. As there are no zoom capabilities I found too often that I was not close enough or far enough from the subject, and could not move for one reason or another, thus it not being as flexible as I would have liked. Looking back, if I had the money I would purchase a 18-70mm instead, giving me the flexibility I needed.

But these are only my thoughts! To help you make a better decision I asked the same question to fellow travel bloggers and experienced professional photographers : Daniel Shah, Daniel Nahabedian, Dave Boskill and Bethany Savlon.

Which is the Best DSLR Lens for Travel Photography? 4 Pro Photographers Answer

​Here's what they answered:

Daniel Shah 

"I'll take a 18-135mm lens because it will give me possibility to shoot wide as well as tele. For traveling, I would want to buy 10-22 mm Canon or any other that gives me more possibility to take wide shots. And definitely I would want a faster lens like f1.8 18-200 since it would give me more possibility to take faraway subjects in low light conditions.

Currently I just take one lens with me to my treks and adventures i.e. 18-135mm and honestly speaking, brands matter when you are really becoming a pro, not for beginners."

​

​

Daniel Nahabedian

"If I planned to travel with only one lens and had the money to invest in a good one, I’d definitely go with an 18-200mm. The idea is to be able to cover a wide focal range so you can be prepared in any situation. 18mm is fine to capture nice wide angle landscapes and the 200mm end is perfect to zoom in that worker in the rice fields from afar. Now the best option of course would be to get a fast lens. Even a f/2.8 is enough in most situations. However fast lenses covering a wide range are not cheap."

"Is it essential to buy ‘brand camera lenses’? If you have the money, go for it! If you are very serious in your photography, you should invest. Lenses are the most important things to buy. However, if Photography is just a hobby or you are just starting in the field, Sigma or Tamron lenses work very well and deliver excellent results, and they are much cheaper. When I first started traveling, I bought an 18-250mm from Sigma. While not a fast lens at all (3.5-6), I found it perfect in most situations. In low light, I just cranked up the ISO and shot away (noise is easily removable in post-processing.)"

"If I had to take a second lens, I’d either go for a 50mm prime f/1.8 (excellent for portraits) or a 24-70mm 2.8 which could easily replace the 18-200mm for street photography. Both lenses are suitable for full frame or cropped sensors."

Tamron's 18-270 mm lens

Bethany Savlon

"For the beginner or anyone looking for a lightweight, all purpose lens the 18-200 3.5 is a good choice. It gives enough wide angle and enough zoom to cover most of your needs without all the added weight. For someone look to take their photography to the next level the 24-70 2.8 is a phenomenal lens. As far as price the 24-70 is not cheap, usually runs around $1500 and it is also not light weight by any means but the pictures are unbelievable. If you have an 18-200 and have a little bit of extra money and want a fun, lightweight lens try out the 50mm 1.8 or the 35mm 1.8 - both will give you dramatically different photos than the 18-200, are reasonably priced (a couple hundred to a few hundred bucks) and are small and lightweight. I would never consider traveling or shooting a wedding without my 35mm 1.8.

As for brand name, I say always buy brand name when you can, if you can. This can be tough for a lot of people, myself included, because brand name will always cost more. If you can't afford the brand name then do your research on the generic names and go with that. My other suggestion (especially if you are tough on your gear) is to shop used. KEH sells a lot of great used lenses and they have a great warranty. You can save yourself a LOT of money by purchasing a solid, used lens.

My last bit of advice is try not to get too caught up on needing an expensive lens. You can still take great photos with all different types and brand names of lenses and you shouldn't go broke trying to just buy one lens. Working with what you have can teach you to create images that other people wouldn't even think about."

Dave Bouskill 

​

"To narrow it down to just one lens is pretty hard. It really depends on your type of photography. Someone who loves to photograph people and lifestyle will surely have a different lens in mind then someone who loves to shoot primarily landscapes. A lot of emphasis has been put on trying to make the all round do everything lens that offers lightweight, excellent image quality and covers all focal lengths. This has proven an impossibility (for now) so you have to be willing to sacrifice something. Bear in mind I am a Canon user and believe that they make the best lenses out there. I have tried others but have always come back to Canon. Great quality build, reliability and awesome optics.

In my opinion the best all round travel lens for people on a budget that I would choose would be the Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM. It is an EF-S lens which means it is meant for a crop sensor camera not a full frame. Most people probably shoot with a crop sensor nowadays. This lens has good image quality, image stabilization which can give you up to an extra 3 stops hand held and has a good focal range (28-135 35mm equivalent). This allows you to shoot landscapes and people all within one lens. Exactly what I would look for in an everyday walk around travel lens. The reason I would not choose something like the 18-200 IS is that the image quality is quite bad at the 200mm range and in my opinion IQ far outweighs a little extra reach.

For a full frame camera I would choose the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM. This has great image quality, perfect focal length and is relatively fast at F4 all the way through the focal lengths. If money was no object the Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 L IS USM is the ultimate all round lens on the market. But at $2700USD it is out of most peoples price range.

If I was to bring one other lens it would be the Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM. Sharp as a tack, great for low light photography and shallow DOF work. If money is an issue the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II is substantially cheaper and offers great results if you stop it down to a 2.0. I never leave home without this lens."

​

What Lens Do I Recommend?

Other Resources and Articles to Help You Improve Your Travel Photography

These articles and ebooks are for photographers of all levels but special attention has been given to the beginner or amateur. They contain simple and medium techniques, tips and tricks that will help you progress quickly and get better results from your camera, no matter what kind you own.

10 Simple Tips to Dramatically Improve Your Photos
How to Use Depth of Field
30 Free Photography Ebooks

Has this article helped you decide? Do you have a favorite lens of your own? Which lens do you always carry with you, and which would you never carry again? Got any questions? Share your opinion below, and this post too if you think others might find it helpful!

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