As I scoured the horizon looking for a sign of where we might spend the night I was instructed to sit on my camel, hold on tight and enjoy the ride as I swayed back and forth while what appeared to be my friendly ride stood up. In front of me laid the rest of the caravan, and I was lucky enough to be the last member of the group allowing for great pictures as the sun set behind us.

My compact camera was inside a waterproof bag that would keep all the sand away and my DSLR was in my backpack unless I was taking a picture- not that it was easy with all the movement. As you might know camels flex their legs forward instead of backward like we, horses and most animals do, creating a pendulum movement enhanced by the fact that they move both legs of the same side at the same time, instead of diagonally opposites.

As we marched through the desert I was able to take in the spectacular scenery that surrounded me, from the 100 m dunes just a few hundred meters in front of me to those in the horizon that were already belonged to Algeria, one of Morocco’s neighboring countries.  Four hours into the desert our local guides told us that we were already close to the camp- just a few  minutes  ahead- and those who wanted to walk to the top of the highest dune in the area could do so quickly before the sun set and everything became pitch black. I was not going to miss this opportunity of course and together with most of the group began the walk.

It turned out that this was easier said than done. Every step forward meant sinking the front leg into the sand well past the shin bone, and after a few minutes of walking those less fit decided to turn around. Four of us continued and once at the top were able to enjoy fantastic views of the desert and the lights of small villages in the distance. It was very windy, so I decided not to pull out any of my cameras to avoid possible damage by sand, and as the sun set we decided to head to the camp directly,  not to where we had left the rest of the group as we would not be able to see where the camp was from there. Halfway down the dune it got dark, but the guides turned on a flashlight to let us know which way we should go.

The camp was surprisingly big and well appointed. Sure, home for a night would be a tent (not for me) but there were about ten of them each big enough to fit 6 people despite our group being of 17. Once our spots  were allocated the group split around two bonfires while the guides prepared dinner:  delicious couscous and tagine enough to feed a group twice as large as ours. After the succulent dinner I and two more travelers grabbed our mattresses and pulled them out of the tent into a dark area close to the camp where we’d sleep, gazing at the millions of stars easily visible in this dry climate with clear skies.

But the day was not over yet. Soon after laying on the mattress one of the guides approached us and proposed a night walk to the top of the high dune where we’d be able to enjoy yet again wonderful views. Not to miss such an opportunity I was up and on my way with three other members  in no time, following the guide in the dark. However things turned out to be easier said than done, and the described 10 minute walk became a one hour ordeal that had me on my fours more than once. Eventually we made it (not the guide- he turned around at some point without letting us know)and from the top we were able to appreciate the beauty of the desert during the night from a special  vantage point in between all the huffing and puffing. We spent a good 20 minutes  taking in the views and resting, looking at the lights of two villages on the west side and those of two small nearby camps close to ours with the black desert night behind them , and made our way back soon after. We’d only get three hours of sleep that night, but who cares if it meant absorbing these sights?

Sure enough at 5 am we were all up and packing our bags, on our camels soon after and on our way to town. As the caravan marched the sun rose from the East, illuminating everything with shades of pink and orange that reflected on the golden sand of the Sahara desert.  About four hours later we reached our van in town, dirty, tired and thirsty… but with a grin that did not leave our faces as we reflected on these new memories not  to be forgotten anytime soon.

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It was my first time in Marrakech, and as an experience-it-all traveler there was no way I was going to leave Morocco without visiting a hammam in Marrakech’s medina, also known as Turkish baths in other parts of the world. I had never been in one anywhere else (the closest experience being visiting a sauna in Finland just a couple of weeks before) leaving it for the time I was in a country where this practice was part of everyday life, and I did not miss the opportunity.

There are two kinds of hammams in Marrakech: the real, authentic ones where locals go to get a bath and rub for around 80 DH and those aimed to tourists which also include a massage, with different prices. I’m one of those travelers who like to experience the real thing, whether it’s riding chicken buses in Central America or eating grasshoppers as a snack in South East Asia, but truth be told I’m not a big fan of saunas ( Morocco is already warm enough) and I didn’t see the point of just getting a rub in a sauna, so this time I went for one that included a massage as well- my buttocks needed a rub after the 12 hour return drive from the desert the previous day. After looking around and as suggested by the friendly staff of my budget yet fantastic hotel in Marrakech I decided to visit Hammam Cleopatre, just a 1 minute walk from Djema el Fna square.

 A Traditional Moroccan Hammam: the Gommage and Massage

I was welcomed to the Hammam by Fatima, the manager and owner. She’s a very charming lady who makes everyone feel very comfortable, and was offered some tea as soon as I stepped into the reception area. I was yet to finish it when I was told that the hammam was ready, and was guided to a simple changing room behind a curtain. I took off my clothes and put my bathing suit on ( I had been told to bring one), and was next asked to walk into the hammam. As soon as the door opened I was slapped by hot and humid air, and saw that the young man responsible for the gommage was poised and ready. An essential part of a hammam experience is the gommage, the traditional exfoliation treatment using a black eucalyptus and olive oil soap. The whole body is scrubbed with an exfoliating glove for deep cleansing and skin stimulation. This is followed by a hairwash and natural soap rub after many rinsings, much needed duethe humid air and the friction because of the gommage. I do have to say that the rubbing was not the most pleasant of sensations for me, but I can’t even imagine what it is to have to rub people in those extreme conditions.  Once finished though I felt clean and tired at the same time, and was glad to be out into the cool room ready for the 1 hour massage.

My favorite part of the hammam was the massage. I had been traveling for three days almost non stop (including a camel trek into the desert) and the gommage had worn me down. The masseuse appeared to be very knowledgeable and worked all the muscles of my body, intensely but smoothly. There is AC to keep the room at a comfortable temperature and traditional Arab music was played in the background to keep the environment spiritual and soothing. I felt very comfortable and relaxed by the time I was done, and was glad it was my last event of the day (unlike locals who visit hammams in the morning) prior to dinner as I was in the mood to sleep right then and there.

Conclusion

I highly recommend Hammam Cleopatre. It is a traditional Moroccan hamma in the  Marrakech medina (and hence probably close to your hotel), the staff is super friendly and the facilities and services are both experiences that will make your day, everything at affordable rates.

Resources

Address: Kennaria n 44, Marrakech, Morocco

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I was a guest of Hammam Cleopatre, however all the information  provided in this article as well as opinions expressed are entirely my own based on my visit .

Have you ever visited a hammam? Did you like it? What would you tell others who are thinking about visiting one? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section below and this post too if you like it!

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Ouarzazate

I found Ouarzazate to be one of the cleanest cities in central Morocco, despite being surrounded by dry hills where rain seldom appears. This is a city that certainly deserves more hours than most of the tours allow, and a great base camp from which to explore some of the nearby Kasbahs said to be among the most spectacular in all Morocco. The adobe houses defy the lush trees standing along the valley walls, waiting to be photographed any time of the day. The city itself doesn’t have much action going on, but there is a movie studio that can be visited.

Ait Ben Haddou

This is the most spectacular ksar I have seen anywhere- not that I’ve seen a lot, but I find it difficult to think that there any many more stunning and picturesque than this one. It is just 30 km away from Ouarzazate and I highly recommend you visit this beautiful location if you’re anywhere close. Make sure you bring several memory cards for your camera as I only found one store that sold them- at three times their value.

Ksars are fortified villages consisting of attached houses usually located on hill tops and sharing some collective structures like mosques, baths and shops. The ksar at Ait Ben Haddou doesn’t lack the intricate streets made by awkwardly placed homes and several of them are still inhabited by easy going families who are obviously not worried about time.

While the ksar is stunning and a gem, it is also somewhat isolated so make sure you visit it carrying plenty of your own water. It is not uncommon for temperatures to rise above 50C (100F) and the dry dust appears to find its way anywhere as soon as a gentle breeze blows. This said there are a few simple restaurants that serve overpriced tagine or couscous ; slightly more complicated meals (but never much) are beyond these prices and from what I saw not worth the spending.

Ait Ben Haddou is probably one of the most visited and famous ksars anywhere in the world- although you might not be aware of it. Its perhaps because of its safe location and admirable landscapes that movies like Lawrence of Arabia (1964), Gladiator (2000) or Prince of Persia (2010) were filmed here and I am sure there are many still to come. Make sure any tour you book for this part of Morocco includes a stop here, bring plenty of water, a ready-to-shoot camera and an inquisitive attitude as this is one of the most beautiful sights I have seen in the world. The ksar is free to visit but if coming with a tour expect to be asked for a tip.

Have you visited central Morocco? How about Ouarzazate and the beautiful ksar of Ait Ben Haddou? Is this one of those places you’d like to visit? Share your thoughts with us in the comments section below and this post too if you liked it!

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Getting to Marrakech

The cheapest and most convenient way to reach Marrakech is via any of the low cost airlines that fly here from several cities in Europe: RyanAir, EasyJet, WizzAir and Vueling are just a few. Flights last around 1.5- 3 hours depending on the country of departure and can cost as little as 20Euros plus tax (around 40) each way! It is also possible to get here by road, crossing the straight of Gibraltar from Spain and driving South along the fairly decent road network.

Where to Stay

There is no lack of accommodation options in Marrakech, ranging from very cheap hostel dorm rooms to affordable riads ( traditional Moroccan houses or palaces with an interior garden or courtyard) all the way to luxury riads and hotels. Prices vary but for around 30 Euros per night you can find clean riads right by the city’s main square with breakfast included-if you’re traveling on a budget there is no reason to go anywhere else and I recommend you don’t as it is here that you’ll find the souks, restaurants and where everything happens ( I stayed at Hotel Cecil, a super clean riad right by Jemaa el-Fnaa costing 25Euros per night breakfast included with the friendliest people I met during my stay in the area)

Things to Do in Marrakech

Jemaa el-Fnaa

Jemma el-Fnaa is a square and market place in the middle Marrakesh’s medina quarter. It remains the main square of Marrakesh, used by locals and tourists, and has been featured in countless movies and books- odds are you’ve seen many times on TV long before you get here. During the day the square has  fresh orange juice sellers (at 4 DH they are invigorating and very tasty, I had several of them per day and is one of the best things to do in Marrkech more often than not) and at around 5 pm snake charmers and other performers arrive to set up their stalls and tourist traps. By the time it gets dark the food stalls are in place and it is here that you’ll find yourself dining at some point. While the food is decent and fairly priced most of what is served here includes fried chicken, tagine, and other simple meals in a crowded yet entertaining environment. By now the Chleuh are dancing and Berber storytellers are attracting an audience and requesting money from tourists- they can be very pushy and even rude when it comes to this: remain calm and ignore them when you feel they’re out of their way.

The Souks

Stuff your wallet with Dirhams and Euros before heading here as you are likely to buy something when walking along the traditional North African market catering both for the common daily needs of the locals and tourist trade. You will find can find pretty much anything or interest and lacking thereof, from spectacular carpets to beautiful lamps, t-shirts with dumb slogans, spices, traditional costumes,  mirrors decorated with camel bone and perfumes.  It’s relatively easy to get somewhat lost as it all looks very similar, but follow the crowd or simply ask for Jemaa el-Fnaa and you’ll be pointed in the right direction. I recommend you take some time when walking around, and consider this more of an attraction than a shopping experience; the souk is a beautiful walk and deserves attention all by itself. By the way, remember to bargain, and bargain hard, when buying anything as they do sell on the expensive side (even for European standards).

Badia Palace

Just under a ten minute walk East of the square is this palace and its gardens. Built in the 19th century it was meant to be the greatest palace of the time, but it never quite had the charm and splendor required. It was used by Si Moussa, grand vizier of the sultan, for his personal use. There is a 3DH fee to visit.

El Badi Palace

These days it consists of the remnants of a palace commissioned by the Saadian Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur in 1578. The palace, which took approximately 25 years to construct, was torn apart in the seventeenth century by the Alaouite Sultan Moulay Ismail, who used the material obtained from El Badi Palace to decorate his own palace in Meknes. The original building is thought to have consisted of 360 rooms, a huge courtyard with a still visible pool richly decorated with Italian marble and large amounts of gold imported from Sudan. There is a mandatory 3DH entrance fee for visiting the palace, and while it might have had its splendor back in its days I found it lacked appeal.

The Spice Market

It’s all about the scents and location. This small market is where you can find all sorts of spices, with store owners willing to give you a walk through and explanation of what they have expecting, as always, that you buy something from them before you leave. It’s an interesting walk and not many tourists  visit it despite it being half way between the Bahia and El Badi Palaces, perhaps because it’s somewhat difficult to find- ask around if this is the case.

The Tanneries

While this could be a very interesting attraction few independent travelers leave the tanneries excited about the experience, let me explain why. Simply put the tanneries are a couple of walled courtyards where where young boys and men spend their day endlessly shearing at the skins with a blade to get a smooth finish, wading thigh deep into the tubs, to press the skins. Some tubes contained dyes, so the workers legs appeared to be permanently dyed too despite some wore thigh length boots. The skins are also treated with chemicals and and a mixture of natural ingredients (animal urine, pigeon droppings etc!) to soften the skins and remove the fur from the pelts so expect putrid scent and non visually appealing yet humbling and thought provoking visit. After all these are the same skins that are later used to make handbags, puffs, shoes and more. But it’s not this that makes the visit uncomfortable.

If you’re an independent traveler like myself you’ll want to make your way here on your own, easily following a map and at your own pace. However, no matter which was you go as you you approach the area kids will find to asking if you’re going to the tanneries and offering to take you there for free, of course! No matter how many times you say no or walk away you’ll be harassed until you walk with somebody. Once you reach the tanneries there will be a man at the door claiming to be the manager and asking for a ridiculous price to be guided through the tanneries, saying too that part of the money is for the men who work there (yeah right). Bargain hard and expect unfriendly looks but keep your stance. Once the visit is over (which will not take more than 10 or 15 minutes) you’ll be out the door and of course the kid who brought you here for free will ask for money too, and one or two Euros will not make him happy. I followed what seemed the logical route back to Jemaa el-Fnaa on the map and ended up walking across a neighborhood that didn’t seem to happy to see me,with a couple of men shouting me to leave the area. I ignored them, continued taking pictures (not of the people) and filming to eventually reach the North end of the souk.

 Visit a Hammam

A hammam is  basically an arab version of a steam bath, which can be as simple or as luxurious as you want. Traditional hammams (not for tourists) are basically steam rooms which include a skin cleaning rub and are actually quite cheap, at around 80 DH per session. Few travelers venture to these though and most prefer visiting slightly better hammams which offer a more personal experience and follow up with a relaxing massage and/or additional treatments. Moroccans tend to visit hammams in the morning, but because of the heat I visited one late in the afternoon as temperatures outside are lower and the relaxing mood makes sleep much more pleasant.

The Saadian Tombs

The mausoleum comprises the remains of about sixty members of the Saadi Dynasty that originated in the valley of the Draa River. There is a 10DH fee to visit them and left the premises with one questions unanswered: why are there so many stray cats here?

Koutoubia Mosque

This is the largest mosque in Marrakech and includes a minaret that dominates the skyline of the city. The minaret is 12.5 m wide and 67.5 m to the tip of the cupola on the lantern, is the mosque’s principal feature and immediately reminded me of the Giralda I visited in Seville, Spain. The minaret, composed of six rooms, one on top of the other, was a great feat of engineering in its day and influenced several subsequent buildings in Morocco. The cupola on top is a symmetrical, square structure topped by a ribbed dome and three golden orbs, which are alleged to have been made from the melted down jewellery of Yaqoub al Mansour’s wife, in penance for her having eaten three grapes during the Ramadan fast.

Madrassa Ben Youssef

Madrassa Ben Youssef is  one of the most dazzling examples of Moorish architecture in the world. Founded during the Merinid era in the 14th century and reconstructed by the Saadians in the 16th century, it expanded it to become the largest madrassa in Morocco. The entrance is unremarkable – just another wooden door on a medina street – but it serves to enhance the visual impact upon entering the main courtyard, where a jade green tiled rectangular pool reflects shining marble, carved cedar wood, lace-like stucco, scalloped archways and a blue rectangle of sky above. After the chaos and noise of the streets outside, the madrassa is an unexpectedly elegant and refined sanctuary where 900 students  were said to have studied the Qu’ran here at any one time. The madrassa in without a doubt one of the most sophisticated and impressive buildings in Marrakesh, and one of the best things to see in Marrakech that I recommend you visit despite the somewhat expensive 70 DH fee.

Conclusion

Legendary, hot, active, somewhat invasive yet nonetheless always appealing Marrakesh is a city that will not leave you unnoticed. It has not shortage of things to see and do and is a fantastic example of the non-luxurious Arab world and Muslim culture. The city itself can be easily visited in a couple of days at a leisurely pace, a stay that can be extended if you want to chill out and spend some time at your inexpensive riad absorbing the culture and local way of life.

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Resources

Official Marrakech Tourism Website http://www.marrakech.travel/en/html/home

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