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It is very easy to get there once in Salento: simply jump on any of the Jeep Willy’s that leave at pre-arranged times and enjoy the ride to the valley’s entrance. Once there you can hire a guide for a tour, opt for a horseback ride or walk along the well signed path on your own.

This is what I did and highly recommend you do too.

There are several itineraries to choose from, including horse rides and other guided tours.

However,  the most typical is also the best: start by heading to the hummingbirds place (called simply like that) right through the first gate on your right and follow the path uphill without any guide.

The walk is not very spectacular during this stage but it can be rather windy. Walk steadily ignoring the several signs that mention a 3 USD fee for the walk and eventually you’ll reach a place with a sign that says Colibris (Hummingbird).

More details of what to do around Cocora Valley can be found further on.

Cocora Valley Colombia: Background

Cocora Valley is home to the national symbol of Colombia, the wax palm. These impressive tropical trees only grow at high altitudes, meaning they depend on an extremely rare set of environmental conditions.

Located roughly 3000 meters above sea level, Cocora Valley is one of the few places in Colombia – and the world, actually – where the wax tree can flourish. In this verdant highland valley, the wax palms stretch up to 60 meters into the sky, with uncannily slender trunks that seem to defy physics.

Get up close, and these trees get even weirder; their smooth trunks are, as you’d expect from the name, waxy like candles. In fact, during the colonial era, wax palms were used in Colombia to manufacture products like soap and (you guessed it) candles.

Meanwhile, the fronds were hacked down and used as cheap roofing, or as decoration during Palm Sunday festivities.

The many industrial uses of the wax palm meant that throughout Colombia’s history, the tree was subjected to intense logging, leading to waning populations throughout the northern Andes.

It wasn’t until 1985 that the Colombian government stepped in and halted the logging of wax palms, and today the trees are the focus of conservation efforts for many Colombians.

Although pockets of wax palms exist in various corners of the northern Andes, the best place to see the pride of Colombia is Cocora Valley. The valley is part of the larger Los Nevados National Natural Park, which stretches over more than 58,000 hectares of Colombia’s Cordillera Central.

Along with sporting glorious green-coated mountains of cloud forest and volcanic landscapes, the national park is also one of Colombia’s largest sources of fresh water.

Over 2 million Colombians depend on water that runs from the glaciers at the heart of the park. In fact, glaciers account for around 4 percent of the park.

Cocora Valley Climate

The Cocora Valley is one of Colombia’s finest examples of a sub-tropical highland region. Temperatures range from 25 °C (77 °F) and a minimum of 12 °C (54 °F) throughout the year, with an overall average of 15 °C (59 °F).

For most of the year, this means you can expect breezy, cool days and mildly chilly nights. However, be aware that the weather can change extremely quickly.

One minute you can be enjoying a cool breeze, the next the harsh Andean sun could be searing the back of your neck.

Come prepared for everything from heavy rain to moderate heat.

Whatever time of year you come, expect to content with some serious mud. Between glacier run-off and tropical rain, Los Nevados National Natural Park is a water-locked wilderness for much of the year, and with it comes ankle deep, thick slodge that can really slow your hiking pace to a crawl.

What to Bring to Cocora Valley - Packing List

Salento and the Cocora Valley are  up in the mountains, which means that temperatures will change a lot during the day (even in summer) and you can expect rain and clouds at any given moment.

With this in mind some of the things you definitely have to consider bringing are:

As far as clothing goes you should bring shorts , long pants (convertible pants will do the trick), a light jacket if you're here in summer and an extra pair of socks (if it rains while trekking your feet can end up quick cold).

How to Get to Cocora Valley

I recommend you get on the first Willys at around 7:00 am to avoid the crowds. Additionally the walk between the palm trees will be done when the sky is still clear and the light is excellent for taking pictures.

From either city, there’s regular transport to Salento. The shorter of the trips is the ride via Pereira, but only by a whisker. From Bogota to Pereira the trip is around eight hours, depending on traffic. 

From Pereira to Salento, it’s just a short hop, skip and a jump of 45 minutes.

On the other hand, if you end up going via Armenia, then don’t feel too bad about it. The trip to Armenia from Bogota usually takes around nine hours, plus an additional hour from Armenia to Salento.

Generally speaking, there’s no need to book ahead. Buses are frequent, roughly hourly, and outside school vacations you’re pretty much guaranteed a seat no matter when you rock up. 

The exception, however, is if you want to travel overnight and want to ensure you get a comfortable seat on a line like Bolivariano. 

To guarantee you get the trip you want, consider booking a day or two ahead. Whichever route you end up taking, you can expect to pay around COP60,000-70,00 (US$15-16) to get from Bogota to Salento.

If you’re short on time, take note that flights are frequent between Bogota and Pereira.

It’s usually possible to find flights for less than US$50, making it a pretty affordable option if you’d rather not spend the better part of a day squished into a bus. 

The flight is less than two hours, though take note that you’ll have to cross town from the regional airport to the bus terminal. A taxi should cost around COP20,000 (US$5).

How to Get to Cocora Valley from Medellin

If you’re coming from Medellin, the best way to reach Salento is via Armenia, with the trip taking around six hours. Regular buses depart from the South Terminal in Medellin. Just like if you’re coming from Bogota, the Armenia-Salento leg is around an hour.

However, if you have a bit of Spanish up your sleeve, tell the bus driver you’re going to Salento, and they should be able to drop you off at a spot on the side of the highway about half an hour before Armenia.

Assuming they drop you at the right place, it’s possible to hail a bus bound for Salento – thus trimming maybe an hour or so off he overall trip.

If you have trouble getting a bus to Armenia, vans for Pereira also leave from outside Medellin’s South Terminal, offering another option for how to go to Cocora Valley.

The trip to Pereira is shorter – just five hours – and you don’t need to backtrack. From Pereira’s main bus terminal, you can find regular buses to Salento that take around 45 minutes.

Overall, Pereira to Valle del Cocora can be a quicker, easier route.

How to Get to Cocora Valley from Salento

From Salento, Cocora Valley is just a hop, skip and a jump away. Tours are available all over town, and regular transport can be found at the main square.

Salento, Valle de Cocora Colombia and the Jeep Willys

As mentioned up top, from Salento the easiest way to get to the valley itself is with one of the colorful jeeps lined up on the main plaza, Plaza de Bolivar. From 6.30 am to around 5.30pm, these jeeps (AKA, the Jeep Willys) ferry visitors to and from Cocora Valley.

These jeeps are well-organised, and there’s even a ticket booth where you can pay your fare. At the time of writing, a single way ticket was COP4000 (US$1), and two way tickets could be purchased for COP 8000 (US$2).

Once you’ve got your ticket, find a jeep and pack in. Officially, the jeeps are supposed to leave at least once an hour; however, they tend to set off once full, which during peak season can be every 15-20 minutes.

Needless to say, there isn’t much need to wait around too long. Stock up on food (try the badeja paisa) and incredible coffee and walk down to the main square.

This is especially true in the mornings, when most visitors head out. To return from the park, just wait in the parking lot where the jeep dropped you off. Within an hour, you should have your ride back.

Cocora Valley Map

How to Hike Cocora Valley

Blue Path: The Short Valle del Cocora hike

Just after leaving the parking lot, take a hard left and keep an eye out for the blue-marked trail. This 5 km hike is the easiest walk in the valley, taking only around 45 minutes to an hour to complete.

The whole one way trail is one big loop, and is suitable for anyone of average fitness.

No guide is needed to visit the valley. However, you can easily organize a Cocora Valley tour.

Hiking Cocora to the Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary

Instead of turning left, at the entrance to the valley take the right path marked “Acaime”. This trail will lead you all the way to the popular Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary.

The path will take you along the bank of a river, before you cross a few bridges and eventually end up at a crossroads. Take note of the direction you came from, as you’ll be backtracking here in a few hours.

Follow the red arrow to the right, and continue taking every right turn you see for the next half hour or so.

Heads up: nobody had told me that this is private property within Cocora Valley and there is a fee for checking them out. I was not impressed by this, but at least you get a drink (coffee or chocolate) and cheese to fill your stomach up while you rest and try taking good shots of the birds.

In total, expect to pay a modest COP 5000 for the privilege of hanging out with the hummingbirds.

The way back is a little confusing because the spot where you have to divert is not very well marked, yet your intuition will make your guess a good one and you will soon find yourself following the path that meanders between the Cocora Valley palm trees.

This is the best part of the trek, and if there are no clouds you will take some award winning photos.

The walk takes about five hours (make sure you have water with you) if you do it slowly and will be one of the highlights of your Colombia trip, assuming you have good weather.

If you don’t I recommend you wait until it is- if you can’t, well, you’ll still enjoy it but the views won’t be as breathtaking.

Acaime to the Wax Palms

From the hummingbird sanctuary, return to that afore-mentioned intersection and take a right (yes, right if you’re coming from the sanctuary) and take the uphill path. Eventually, you’ll reach a landing dubbed La Montañita by locals.

From here, there’s some great photo opportunities. I’d advise stopping for a water break or packed lunch here and soaking up the views.

After the viewpoint, you’ll be able to enjoy a pleasant downward stroll into the heart of the valley.

Take your time as you wander between the wax palms, and eventually make your way through the valley and back to the parking lot. Expect the round trip to take around 2-4 hours, depending on how hard you pound the trail.

The total Cocora Valley hike distance is around 12 km.

Where to Stay in Salento - Cocora Valley

Conclusion

Without a doubt Cocora Valley (Valle del Cocora) is one of the highlights in Colombia and should not be missed if possible. Plan on spending at least a couple of nights if you're on a hurry, 3 or 4 if you have some time and want to take it slowly.

Generally speaking prices are quite affordable, the food is good, and you can be as busy- or as laid back- as you want.

What makes it so special? It might be the fact that it has retained its historical charm and the peacefulness that it seems to come with it. This easygoing vibe is not commonly found in Colombia and therefore Colombians love to visit as tourists themselves.

Besides historical looking buildings and friendly locals what else could you expect? A great tourist destination jam-packed with fun things to do, incredible places to visit and genuine Colombian culture. If you want to know everything this beautiful town has to offer, stick with me!

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Here I share my favorite memories of my  visit to Salento and my top recommendations including information on why you should go, the best things to do, how to get there, where to stay and more!

What and Where is Salento

Salento is an Andean town west of Colombia smack in the middle of the coffee zone (eje cafetero) and surrounded by lush landscapes. It's the base town from which to explore Cocora Valley with it's famous wax palms, and the gateway to Los Nevados National Park.

Top Things to do in Salento Colombia

As small as Salento may be, there is quite a bit to do if you like the outdoors and enjoy taking things slowly. There are also some day trips to enjoy nearby, which will also teach you quite a bit about on of Colombia's most famous areas.

Stroll Down Calle Real and Plaza de Bolívar

Calle Real can't be overlooked when deciding what to do in Salento. It is the main thoroughfare for visitors and the perfect place for some photo taking. It has plenty of souvenir shops and almuerzos where you can buy gifts and fill up your hungry stomach for around 2 USD.

Here you'll also find the most beautiful buildings in town, cute cafes and bars where you can drink something and chill out. Combine your visit to Calle Real with a stroll at the nearby Plaza de Bolivar and the humble church of Nuestra Señora del Carmen. 

Then Walk Up to the Mirador

The Mirador is a simple and short little trip where you'll be rewarded with truly lovely views over the tiled roofs of Salento. It’s an easy climb up a colored staircase at the very end of Calle Real.

Much more than a photo opportunity, they lead up to a viewpoint over the Valley - Mirador Alto de La Cruz.

Take a Short Hike to Santa Rita Waterfall

If the sun is shining, this is an excellent option to stretch your legs and will allow you to see one of the lesser explored attractions in Salento. While the waterfall itself is impressive, the walk takes you through beautiful scenery.

Play Tejo

Tejo is Colombia’s national sport and a must-do activity for foreign visitors. It basically involves throwing a heavy metal disc at gunpowder stuffed envelopes until they literally explode.

Yes, you read it right – you’ll be playing with EXPLOSIVES! The game is usually played in a bar while drinking copious amounts of local beer.

You might think Tejo is a recipe for disaster, and you’re probably right. It can be crazy and is something that surely only Colombians could have come up with, but is really fun and absolutely worth playing.

Cancha de Tejo Los Amigos is probably the best place in Salento to play Tejo. The staff is tourist-friendly and has introduced thousands of foreigners into the game’s dynamic over the years.

Los Amigos is just two streets north of Calle Real and there’s no entrance fee, so if you want to play you just need to buy a beer. But if you don’t see yourself playing this unusual sport, you can just chill with your drink and then watch the locals play.

Visit the Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary

This is definitely one of the most special things to do in Cocora Valley and can be reached on a 45-minute detour from the main hiking loop.

I highly recommend the Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary to anyone visiting the coffee region in Colombia. Why? It does add an additional 2 hours to your already demanding 5-6 hours Valle de Cocora hike, but it also gives you the unique opportunity of admire the friendliest hummingbirds you'll ever see while you sip on some of the best local coffee.

The entrance fee is just 6,000 COP and the staff is always willing to give information about the different species of hummingbird living there.

The trails are well-maintained and there are also a large number of feeders for the birds so you can be mesmerized by them whizzing around your head.

Take a Coffee Tour

The Colombian coffee is world-famous, and Salento is set smack in the middle of Colombia’s coffee triangle, specifically in the Quindío, which is arguably the best coffee region in the country.

That being said, you’re kind of required to visit a coffee plantation or finca that specializes in growing coffee plants.

There are several coffee farms nearby, most of which include a guided tour and coffee tasting workshops, ranging from 5 to 20 USD per person. I was lucky though because I was walking with a couple of Colombian travelers and we found a plantation where two workers kindly explained everything to us for free.

By visiting a coffee farm you get a necessary insight into the coffee growing and manufacturing process, not to mention the opportunity to try and buy high-quality coffee directly from the producers.

Coffee Farms in Salento

One of the most recognized is Don Elias, a family-run coffee hacienda where all the production is done by hand. It offers a fantastic introduction to Colombia’s coffee without the use of sophisticated infrastructure or large scale production. The tour cost 12,000 COP per person and last around one hour.

Hike the Cocora Valley

Hiking the Cocora Valley (Valle de Cocora in Spanish) is definitely one of the best things to do in Salento Colombia, and should be included in any Colombia itinerary.

Travelers come here from all over the world just to see the iconic postcard views of the world’s tallest wax palm trees – they can grow up to 60m (200 feet), the height of a 14-story building!

Between the incredibly green landscape, the cloud forests, the enormous palm trees and the invigorating hiking trails, Cocora Valley is nothing else than breathtaking.

You could either walk to the entrance of the Valle or take one of the colorful jeeps that constantly leave from Plaza de Bolivar (the first departure happens at 6:10 a.m.)

A timetable does theoretically exists, due to the increasing popularity of the hike, but the jeeps only leave once they fill up, which is usually every half hour. Just show up, buy a ticket (4,000 COP) and wait your turn.

Though you can rent horses to ride out to the best of the palm trees viewpoints, I highly recommend making the hike yourselves (it takes between 5 and 6 hours, depending on how many photo stops and picnic breaks you do)

Not only does ensure a whole bunch of extra views, but you also get to enjoy the forested part of the hike, home to a beautiful river and a few waterfalls.

If you’re doing the long loop pack some snacks, lots of water and make sure not to miss the Cocora Valley Hummingbird Reserve’s side-trip, which I previously mentioned in this post.

But if you just want photos of the impressive palm trees or you’ve unfortunately arrived later in the afternoon, take the short path straight to the valley – it’s only an hour or so round-trip and you’ll be able to see the trees at the beginning of this hike, one of the best hikes in Colombia.

How to Get to Salento

Getting to Salento is faily easy, but how much time it takes will depend on how you want to get here. These are your best options from the main cities:

From Bogota

There are no direct buses operating the Bogota-Salento route. Instead, you'll need to catch a bus from Bogota's Terminal De Transporte Salitre to Armenia (if you zoom in the map below you'll note that it is conveniently located near Salento, 24km to be precise).

The journey takes 9hrs and cost 45k-50k COP. Once in Armenia you'll need to catch a bus in order to reach your final destination.

However, this is not the only option, you can also fly to Salento from Bogota with the national airline of your preference. If you do so, you have 3 airport options to choose from Pereira, Armenia and Manizales.

From each of these you need to take a bus into Salento, or a taxi if you want to save time and energy.

From Medellin

Salento is only 248km (154 miles) away from Medellin, making it an easy trip that takes 6 to 7 hours by bus and under 1 hour via direct flight to one of the nearby cities (Pereira, Armenia or Manizales).

To travel by bus, travellers need to transit either via Pereira or Armenia, as there are no truly direct connections to Salento. Buses depart daily from Medellin’s Terminal De Transportes del Sur and make the long 6-7hrs journey in relative comfort.

Other passengers will get on/off during the trip but you won’t be required to disembark the bus at any stage. Tickets (54,000 COP) don’t need to be purchased in advance, but if in doubt, go to the bus station beforehand to secure your spots.

From Cali

The cheapest and most convenient way to get from Cali to Salento is by bus, travelling via Armenia. There are two bus companies that cover this route: Bolivariano and Coomotor.

Services depart hourly from Cali’s Vias Internas Terminal and operate every day.

The bus ride takes about 3.5 hours (with some very enjoyable views along the way I must say) and tickets can be booked online or at the station in advance. Once you arrive in Armenia you can catch a bus or a mini-van to Salento – this journey takes 50minutes and cost 4,500 COP ($1.5).

Where to Stay in Salento

Budget 

International Food

Widely popular between foreign visitors, Brunch is the hippest restaurant in Salento. The owner is an American expat who knows exactly what backpackers desire when they are on the road. This place is known for their vast menu and massive portions, which are perfect for a post-hike meal.

They serve everything from Colombian staples to classics like wings, burgers, pasta and salads. Did I mention their soft, chocolaty brownies, topped with vanilla ice cream, and drizzled with chocolate and a creamy home-made peanut butter sauce? They’re out of this world!

Best Cheap Eats 

Look no further than El Rincon de Luci. This authentic little place ranks high on every ‘Best restaurants in Salento’ list, and for good reason. It’s located right along the main street and serves some of the most delicious food in town.

There’s no menu, you’re simply given a few choices. First, you pick your meat: pork, chicken or trout. Next, your sides: mashed potatoes, vegetables, beans or lentils. That’s it, now you wait.

Within a couple of minutes your feast arrives. Along with the choices you made, your meal comes with an arepa, corn fritter, fried plantain, salad, soup of the day and a glass of juice.

The whole thing cost around 8,000 COP or roughly $3 USD (unbelievable!). They not only have one of the simplest concepts you’ve ever seen, but also some of the tastiest and cheapest.

Veggie/Vegan Food – Coco Bowl

Coco Bowl is considered one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Salento. It’s a bright, colorful café that specializes in vegetarian and vegan food with a focus on using organic, locally grown products only. From smoothies and coffee drinks to veggie bowls and burgers, if you’re looking for something healthy and delicious, this is the place to go.